Image: A snow-kissed mountain near Kuwohi, the highest peak in the national park, after an unusual snowstorm in October 2024.

Long before the first tree ever took root, the Appalachian mountains reigned. Their formation began 1.1 billion years ago when the continents of Amazonia and Laurentia collided and continued crashing against one another for millions of years. This created a mountain range that was once as high as the Alps, so tall and powerful that they might have plunged the planet into an ice age. From about 480 million years ago to the present, the Appalachians underwent some staggering erosion from rain and weathering. Sediments like sand and clay were swept downstream, forming much of what is now the state of Florida and chipping away at the Smokies’ once jagged summits. Today we can admire the range’s gentle peaks and rolling valleys that bear the weight of this ancient history. The Smokies have also served as a refuge for remnant species leftover from the Pleistocene. During the last ice age, boreal spruce-fir forests dominated much of the Appalachians. As the planet warmed and glaciers melted, these heat-sensitive trees were restricted only to the highest peaks, where they can still be found today. Walking through these forests is like taking a step back in time.

With over one billion years of natural history, it may come as no surprise that the Smokies harbors more biodiversity than any other national park. With an elevation gradient of 876 to 6,643 feet, the park boasts a level of biodiversity equivalent to driving from Georgia to Maine. Nearly 23,000 species of animal, plant, and fungi have been described. Scientists estimate, however, that there are nearly 60,000 waiting to be discovered. One group in particular embodies the diversity and endemism the Smokies accommodates; the salamanders. Over 30 species of these charming amphibians can be found in streams and woodlands at every elevation, giving the park its title of ‘Salamander Capitol of the World.’ It also houses the world’s densest population of black bears with over 1,900 individuals (roughly 2 bears per every square mile). In early summer, synchronous fireflies (Photinus carolinus) perform one of nature’s most unimaginable shows. No matter when you visit the Smokies, life abounds.